The tour this morning was "Secret Itineraries" of Doge's palace and we learned a lot about prison cells, hidden passages, and conflicting reports of Casanova's escape strategy. We also learned that the Doge (effectively an elected duke) was elected for life, could not refuse the nomination, could not resign, and had to use his own treasury for all expenses while in office. Warren Buffet for president, anyone? They took us through a lot of the behind the scenes areas that aren't open to the general public, and just the idea what we were walking in passages and climbing stairs built (in some cases) almost a thousand years ago was sort of mind numbing. We also saw these little stones with holes cut in them called "Lion's Mouths" (see pic for front and back) where any Venetian citizen could drop a secret accusation of their neighbor. The catch was that accusations had to be signed, and if the charge was proved false, the accuser had to serve the sentence for the crime. Ancient Venice had some forward thinking people.
There were six capital crimes in the era of the Doges (which lasted until Napoleon conquered Venice). The first three are predictable: crimes against the state, crimes against the church, murder. The last three are less so: returning from exile, tax evasion, and water pollution. Forward thinking, right?
Of course we heard a bit about Casanova, who was imprisoned for crimes against the church, but somehow not sentenced to death. In his case, "crimes against the church" apparently meant sleeping with nuns, which was not unusual in ancient Venice? I don't know, still forward thinking? Our guide seemed somewhat enamored of him, regardless of his bad behavior. He did escape the prison, and according to his memoirs, did so by digging out of his room, however, our guide pointed out that no evidence of this was found during restoration, and that it's far more likely he simply had a powerful friend who bribed the guard.
We also got to see the torture chamber, where prisoners were suspended by their wrists from behind, thus dislocating their shoulders, while being questioned. Four other cells held prisoners awaiting their turns, so that they could see and hear what was in store for them. A window above lit the prisoner's face while the magistrates sitting in judgment were in complete darkness. PsyOps indeed. Torture sessions were only conducted at night so as not to disturb the workers in the surrounding offices.
When we finished the secret part of the tour, we did the regular part, and saw the main rooms of the palace. The art is amazing, the architecture is amazing, the woodworking is especially amazing, but the thing that stunned me most is just how casual the Venetians are about it all. Most things are not roped off or behind glass, they're just out for people to see up close and appreciate. Maybe when you have as much history as Venice does you can afford to take it somewhat less seriously, or maybe the rest of the world is just more careful with things than Americans and not everything has to be under lock and key.
My favorite part was probably the Giant Staircase which is guarded by the "two gods of Venice": Mars on one side and Neptune on the other. Only nobles were allowed to go up those stairs, everyone else had to use the stairs we climbed today. Lyle's favorite part was the collection of weapons, many of which were used by ancient Venetians soldiers, but some of which were spoils of war from conquered Turks. He says, and I agree, that overall it was just amazing to be in there looking at everything and realizing how much time and talent it took to create all of the art and everything, especially considering the absence of things like our awesome power painter.
When we'd had enough of the Doge's palace, we wandered back to the square and finally got gelato. We are no longer total failures as Italian tourists. The weather today was clear and a bit warmer, but it's supposed to rain again tomorrow. After gelato we took the elevator up the bell tower and admired the view there.
From there we popped into the tourist info office and bought a map. Venice is super confusing and the map doesn't really help, but we feel better having one. After that we headed away from St. Mark's to find a slightly more authentic place for lunch. This was our first time having a meal outside of the restaurant without a guide. We had a meat and cheese tray that was excellent, and pizzas that were only so-so. After lunch we found our way to to the Rialto Bridge and Market, which I have to say was anticlimactic. The bridge is under construction, but even so... just not that impressed. The gondolas were finally out today in the nicer weather, but Lyle and I have decided that we had such an amazing time in the kayaks and that the gondoliers just don't look that motivated that we're going to skip the gondola ride.
We did find a place to buy a new camera, and got help getting everything set up from a very helpful guy at the shop. He got a bottle opener and seemed confused by the whole idea. We also, importantly, got more gelato. Then we went to a bookstore, because, I mean, obviously, when in Venice one must visit Libreria Acqua Alta. The books there are in bathtubs and boats so that when the water comes in they don't get wet. I did not buy any books (be impressed), though their erotica section was impressive. (Check Facebook for pics there, they have to come from the new camera.)
After that we just sort of meandered our way back to the shuttle stop for the hotel, and then jumped into the executive lounge for happy hour. Gotta say, there are reasons I love Hilton Diamond membership. Lyle had a glass of wine, I had a coke, and the guy came over to tell us happy hour was ending, so we should just put anything we want on our table. Lyle got three more beers. They also have food, but that seems less relevant to us. So that was probably dinner, and one of us will try to be up in time for breakfast tomorrow.
We're currently debating plans for tomorrow, feel free to leave your suggestions in the comments!
Marty and Lyle
Gelato twice in a day and 3 beers for last call.... You guys are becoming quite the professional vacationers.
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